Written by Jess Miller
Quality over quantity, less is more and value over volume. Considered to be the mantra of designer clothing from the 1920’s through to the 90’s. Then opposite sat at the helm, quiet luxury has been thrown out the window and morphed into ostentatiously branded items which are soon to fill the already crowded rails of TKMaxx. Logomania has reigned supreme for many years, however, it looks like vintage has come to usurp the crown. Finally.
Walking into any outlet store there is a cloud of despondency and defeat sittinng heavily in the air. To end up on the rails there is approximately a two year purgatory, which includes four rounds: the shop floor at full price, a summer sale, onto a winter sale, onto a staff sale followed by a sample sale. To still be standing after so many hits, (or more likely dejectedly crumpled in a ‘last chance’ bin in the corner), is not a victory, it is in fact a colossal insult. After round four, the items are kindly donated to outlets around the world, where they are reduced to an even lower rate. Needless to say the price has significantly diminished, and so has the brand’s dignity. Studies have shown that a number of designer labels would rather throw their surviving round four items onto the flames than have them line the rails of an outlet. Louis Vuitton for example exclusively sells in store- when it is off the rails, the items literally cease to exist, but at what cost?
Fashion is a result of culture, the two are mirrored and will be for eternity. Therefore, the invasion of Logomania was parallel to the vanity of culture. This has been growing gradually over the years. The pocket size Ralph Lauren Polo pony has graduated from the size of a one pence coin to Horse-zilla in a matter of years. Wearing your heart on your sleeve has its counterpart- to wear your wealth on your chest… It would be naive to assume this is due to fashion purposes, more likely that society feels obliged to let our neighbors know our bank balance, in the least discreet way. Moreover, quality and cut has been neglected. Unfortunately, for some designers the logo is necessary in order to differentiate from the dupes. Coco Chanel is turning in her grave. Her beautiful boucle suit is no longer immediately recognised, instead of peaking into the collar to find the subtle
label hidden inside we now see it crawling all over the tweed. Brands have lost their niche, no longer focusing on a piece of clothing to finesse, for example a blazer, dress or shoe. By broadening their clothing designs they have lost touch with the importance of beautifully made clothes, instantly recognisable with the ability to make heads turn in the street. From a tiny pocket size stamp which has grown and multiplied, these infestations of logos are examples of status symbols which clothing now represents. Clothing no longer speaks for itself, instead the logo indicates a certain price range, the fit and look of the item has seemingly lost importance.
Social media has not helped, a picture speaks a thousand words, however the truth is hard to come by. Unofficially and with a sprinkling of spite, influencer culture is the number one killer of authenticity. Posts can display a particular lifestyle, for example, a Celine logo’d T-shirt paired with a printed Gucci bag would signify a certain paycheck. Furthermore, the ongoing refresh of a feed is like diving into an infinity pool, the grid is never ending and the array of money flaunted obscene. On the other hand, there is no way of telling at what point of the sale system these items were purchased, whether they are a fake or even, dare we say it, a rental which must be returned with a solemn face after the given week.
But the world is coming to its senses. Now we make way for the rise in vintage shopping and bow our heads to Gen Z as they strut by in their limited edition Gucci loafers circa early 90’s. Fast fashion has plunged and the desirability of second hand pieces has shot through the roof. Fare ye well to mass produced and emblemmed bags, jumpers, shoes as the like. Incredibly, clothes designed nearly a century ago are having a resurgence. Found on online platforms, rummaged out of flea markets or stolen from Grandmother’s wardrobe, the options are plentiful. Not only is vintage much more fashionable, it is better for the planet. For the past few years second hand sales have grown and grown, and the rails of outlets with noisily branded clothes are fit to burst…. With this renaissance however, there is hope for the extinction of Logomania.
